TIPS FROM MAKEUP ARTIST CHARLOTTE BENTLEY

Photo by: Alexey Yurenev and Stephanie McNiel

June 2009

A major part of being a successful makeup artist is using excellent products.  Without proper paints, an artist cannot complete their canvas; this principle goes for makeup as well.  My favorite products are at various price points and have been decided after years of testing.

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For this week of June 8

LIPS

Lip Liner- It is very important to start every lip look, whether you are planning on bold lipstick or simple gloss, with a lip liner that is the same color as your lips.  It helps everything to last longer, but doesn't give a harsh look. 

Wet N Wild Creme Lip Liner Pencils ($1!)  in Pink Mauve 663B or Brandy Wine 666 are the perfect  product for this.  I go through these like candy.  The only other time I will use a lip liner is with a really bold lipstick, and I use it after putting on the lipstick.  These bright colors I use are from Nars. 

For this week of June 1

EYES

Brow Products - I start on almost everyone, expect for those with the lightest possible brows, with Maybelline Twin Eye & Brow Pencils in Blonde.  The color is enough to fill in the brow (any shade) but not be anything too harsh.  It gives a natural look that just helps to fill any holes or sparse areas.

I blend with a brow comb and then finish with Max Factor Clear Mascara.  If I want a darker look, I will use powder eye shadows from MAC or Nixie in the color I want the brows to be.  I personally prefer a thicker, more natural brow, but I look arched brows too.

For this week of May 25

What I'm loving this month is superstar makeup artist's Alex Box's new makeup line, Illamasqua.  Right now it is only available in the UK, so snag it up if you can!  She is one of my major idols in terms of artists, and this range is absolutely incredible.  She has a huge array of stunning colors and products with gorgeous packaging.  She also has a program for professional makeup artists - so check it out!  It is one of the most creative lines I've seen in a while - somewhat gothic, somewhat cheeky, and completely fabulous! www.illamasqua.com

EYES

The eternal mascara question...what is the best?  This is probably the most common question I get when people find out I am a makeup artist.  Personally, my favorites are L'Oreal Voluminous and Diorshow.

They both have intense black pigment (Voluminous has lovely other shades as well) and provide major lash power.  I apply all mascara on clients with a mini-fan brush, and start on top of the lash, which adds volume.  For those who are simply using their mascara at home, always start on the top of the lashes, to get a more natural look by getting closer to the roots.

The most important thing about lashes, more than the mascara you use, is curling them before applying any mascara. The best curlers are Kevyn Aucoin and Shu Uemera.  These two do not pinch and have a shape that works for every eye.  I like to "walk" the curler up the lashes: curl once at the roots, once at the middle, and once at the tips.  Concentrate on the outer corner lashes for a doe-eyed look that can wake up the whole face.

For this week May 18

I based most of decisions on eye shadow on the amount of pigment they have.  While at times I enjoy sheer shadow (for highlighting), I prefer eye shadows that pack a lot of impact.  MAC is synonymous for great eye shadow.

A newer brand Nixie Cosmetics also has a wonderful line with a huge range of colors.

Professionally oriented line Yaby has adorable, dime-sized eye shadows that are inexpensive and excellent.  The colors range from neutral to crazy bright, and with the price point, they are impossible to resist!

FACE

For this week May 11

One of my favorite things to do to truly "blend" foundation into the face is to buff it in after applying with a MAC 187 brush sprayed with MAC Fix+.  This gives much more realistic look and helps the makeup to blend seamlessly with the skin.

Another product I adore is Nars Multiples.  these gorgeously pigmented, creamy roll-up sticks help to provide that "Hollywood glow".  They can be used over blush, as blush, or even as eye shadow or lipstick.  My favorite is Copacabana, which is a stunning highlighter for all skin tones.  When in combination with Touché Éclat, the results are unbelievably glowy.

Powder- Face Atelier's Ultra Loose Powder in Translucent is a must-have in every woman's kit, makeup artist or not.  Powder sets all facial makeup and helps keep shine at bay, and if used correctly, does not give a " cakey" look.  Once you are done applying foundation and concealer, take loose powder on a very fluffy blush and tap off excess, than swirl lightly all over face.

Blush- There is no beating Nars Blush.  Everyone knows of the shade Orgasm, of course, but what about the others?  Deep Throat, Lovejoy, and Mata Hari are all gorgeous natural shades, but Exhibit A, Angelika, and Crazed provide vivid impact.  They are all super-pigmented, meaning you only need a slight bit to provide your face with some beautiful, fresh color.  Their cream blushes are also stunning, especially Penny Lane, which is the most gorgeous color for those with porcelain skin.

For this week May 4

Foundation- Face Atelier makes an excellent foundation.  It is silicone-based, meaning that it can easily make your skin look flawless! It is full-coverage, so I recommend it for photo-shoots mainly.  They have tones that are easily adjustable (especially with the "+" and "-" colors, which lighten or darken the colors as precisely as possible), and I thin them with RCMA Foundation Thinner for a more natural look.  However, if you are not a makeup artist and prefer a foundation with an easier application. 

 I love the new MAC Studio Sculpt Foundation.  It is gel-based and goes on like a moisturizer, but has a gorgeous glowy finish that lasts all day.  The SPF 15 is also an added bonus with spring and summer approaching.  MAC also has a great range of colors, in both warm and cool tones.

Concealer- Every woman needs two concealers.  One to cover up blemishes, and another to work on the eye area with.  My favorite to cover blemishes is believe it or not, Max Factor Erace Cover-Up.  It is a classic concealer, packed is almost a lipstick tube, but it's thickness and staying power does the job without looking cakey.  

For under eyes, there is no beating Yves Saint Laurent's Touché Éclat.  The click-pen is addictive, and the light particles make every woman shine.  Used under the eyes and in the inner corners, it gives the face light. I also use it as a highlighter all over the face - on the brow bones, upper cheekbones, and on the cupid's bow of the lip. 

Bronzer * I often find bronzers to be orangey or too red, so my insider*s secret is that I use MAC Blot Power in Dark or Deep Dark to contour the face.  It is the perfect neutral brown that I can go back and add shimmer to later.  The key to bronzer is applying where the sun hits * the cheeks, the bridge of the nose, and the temples.  To slightly contour, I recommend using a smaller angled blush brush and applying it beneath the cheekbones, the edges of the forehead, and beneath the chin.

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