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ALEXANDRA GROOVER
Most designers don't wear
their own labels and have a totally different taste and
style in regards to their designs that they create. I
asked Alexandra: "Can you describe your personal style?"

"I like to wear a
lot of black," she laughed.
- You fit right in London!
Alexandra
replied:
"I guess
my collections are somewhat autobiographical."
[Alexandra explains one of the reasons she started her
casual label.] "The reason I started the casual
label is because I really like the pieces from my luxury
line, but it's not something I would wear every day; I
just wanted something that was casual yet interesting at
the same time. I felt we had a bit of a gap in the
market as far as things that are really comfortable but
don't look completely sloppy or casual, so I started
making these jersey pieces to just have something nice
to wear that wasn't stiff, cotton, a ball gown, or a
cocktail dress. Something that looked dressy or…how can
I describe it? Yea, something that looks dressy,
comfortable to wear from day to evening, if you want,
depending on how you styled it. I also like the
luxury label and the ball gowns, but that's not always
appropriate. It's nice to have something you wear
from day to evening and not feel uncomfortable in either
situation."
Designers work literally around the clock. Is
there any time for a five minute break or a short
holiday? I asked: "What is your typical day like, and
what do you do in your spare time?"
Alexandra answered: "Ooh, I don't
have a lot of spare time." [I wasn't surprised by
that answer.] “Generally speaking, I meant it changes
from day to day. I have so many different things
going on. I have my fashion show, which was pretty
short notice as far as, how much time I had to get it
together from when I was awarded the sponsorship.
It was right before Christmas that they let us know we
had two months to make the ‘whole collection’. So, that
was work none stop; draping the pieces and cutting the
patterns. I had my assistant help me get the
invitations and guest list together. We continued until
my show and then after that I just tried to feel normal
again for a while." She laughed. "Sleep a bit and
then I started working on the look-book and the press
day, because after the show there's usually a press
day."
- Gosh, just
listening is exhausting. [Being a successful
designer is a lot of hard work!]
- I had to prepare all
of my samples for the press day, which was in a venue
near a popular building, which was really good, because
it attracted all the right press people." [The
show was in February, March, and April’09.]
Alexandra went on to tell me the
whole routine of the fashion shows, the press, and
preparation process.
- I was
working on preparing for the press day and starting to
do some research and sketches for my new collection.
I have to do a lot of multi-tasking with deadlines and
fashion. Everything is ahead of time while you're
designing one season, then you show. You also have
to do presentations the other season; as a small company
it can get kind of chaotic. I work pretty long
hours and do lots of different things. I have a
few helpers that are helping me on and off throughout
the season. I have a small staff that is excellent at
pattern making, cutting, and sewing; it helps me to keep
organized. Then it's back to applying for more
sponsorship competitions. All of those deadlines
are over now, so I'm back to my experiments and my
sketching for next season and for July. [Alexandra says,
she will be having anywhere from five to seven key
pieces to start showing to buyers.]
So
I've got a lot of work ahead of me now!
- That's for spring/summer 2010?
- Yea, they start looking at things in
July, which is pretty crazy, it doesn't give much time!
I mean it's not crazy, I guess if you're a bigger
company. I'm pretty much one person trying to keep
up with all of that. If you're not ready, then
they'll spend their budget by the end of July. The
show is in September.
With all of the insight on the
prepping process that Alexandra shared with me, I was
very much interested in knowing what we could expect to
see from her Spring and Summer 2010 collection. I
asked: "Can you tell me a little bit of what we can
expect in your 2010 collection? Or have you done
any brainstorming?"
"Yes, I
started researching. It's going to be different
because it's spring/summer. I'm working with
sculptural shapes again, but the fabrics will be a bit
lighter!" [Alexandra wants to keep her signature
style, but will keep her vision of a natural object; she
will also be adding a couple of other things to mix in
her S/S 2010 collection.] "I think it's going to be
a really good collection!" [Alexandra was quite
hyped about the collection.] "I'm looking forward
to presenting it. What else can I tell you
about it? I'm considering doing shoes for the
spring wear pieces, as well. I'd like to have some
fun with that as well, but that hasn't been set in
stone."
I was interested in knowing about
the British Fashion Council schedule of designers' time
slots when they will be showing their pieces (dates and
times).
"I never know when the dates of the shows
are, because the British Fashion Council doesn't confirm
the dates for a while with me and so everybody that
shows off schedule will have to wait until they actually
confirm the on scheduled shows. Last season, I didn't know until about a
week before my show. I didn't have a confirmed
date or time, which is quite frustrating, because the
Fashion Councils are really dragging their feet this
year. I think it has something to do with the
economy and lots of people randomly pulling out, because
they decided they didn't have the funding to show, so it
all depends I won't be showing with the Fashion Council
this year. I know I'll have an off scheduled show.
I'm not quite sure; I haven't really decided which
option I would like to go with."
There are many aspiring fashion
designers who would want to have the opportunity to show
their work and to have women and men wear their designs.
I asked Alexandra: "What business advice can you give to
aspiring fashion designers?"
Alexandra answered: "I think one main
thing that creative people are lacking in fashion is
‘business experience’. You have to have some form of
training in that area. Most fashion schools don't
really teach business, which is a shame. It's not
all about being creative. I would hope you would
like to make a living out of being creative. I
also don't think there's a lot of support in these
areas. I don’t think a lot of creative people,
especially students, realize that. Yes, if you actually
want to make money out of being a designer, you have to
know what you're doing from a business side of things as
well. You can't just make 'stuff' and expect
people to buy it and be able to pay your rent; you have
to have some sort of a structure, a foundation in order
to run a business. You have to do a bit of
research, you have to know who your market is, and
allocate you funds realistically. I don't think a
lot of creative people are real good at this. It's
important to either hire somebody that has good business
skills, if you have the money, or try to gain these
skills yourself. There are lots of government
agencies that provide various types of training; some of
it is free, some is reduced, because it's funded by the
government. Your chances of success are a lot higher
having a business foundation, consciousness as to how it
works in the business world, or just generally how to do
a budget and cash flow and all of these things. If
you go out on your own, then you ‘really’, ‘really’,
need to know what's going on!"
www.alexandragroover.com
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